Back in November of last year I finished a Brick Linked 10179 UCS Falcon which is posted in the Recreating UCS Models thread:http://www.fbtb.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=8339
It is such a cool model, but looks out of place setting by itself on a table. I was inspired by the awesome Docking Bay 327 Diorama that Dave built:http://www.fbtb.net/2011/10/31/daves-ucs-scale-escape-from-docking-bay-327/
David did an amazing job scratch building his and ended up with 10.5k pieces. He did not have a parts list or instructions, so I made my own version in Lego Digital Designer based from his photos. My goal was to keep the cost (i.e. part count) as low as possible by leaving the back wall unfinished and go with a static elevator. Total current part count without the Falcon or mini-figs is 7733. The price not including shipping was ~10 cents a part. I ended up buying new base plates since I did not want to wait for used ones to become available at a reasonable price.
Here are some renders from LDD for the latest version:
Layout shows the base plates that were cut to fit the table. The back wall is 124 studs and the side is 112 studs long. I ended up getting (6) 48x48 base plates and (4) 16x32 plates. I didn't go any larger then David's to keep the cost down on the future plexiglass.
Back Wall View:
I left he back wall unfinished to reduce part count and cost. My display will be up against a wall. The black bricks and plates can be any color to reduce cost since they are not visible from the other side.
High quality render of the latest version using LDD to POV Ray with base plates removed:
I was originally going to make a table with a fancy museum style center pedestal. Since this was my first large woodworking project, I decided to keep it simple. I also could not afford to give up the storage space under it.
I used MDF for the table base. I ended up putting 1x2 wood around the bottom perimeter to support the side edging. 1x3 wood was used to secure the legs. Everything was nailed and glued into place. In hindsight, regular wood would have been a better choice. I ended up putting a 3/8" wood strip around the perimeter for the Plexiglass to sit on and hold the base plates in place. The edging around the perimeter extends up 1/4" to hold the future Plexiglass. I did have to use some wood filler for the corners.
If you plan to build this, setup and connect the base plates first to get exact dimensions. There is a gap between the plates, but it will not be visible with tile in place.
My next challenge is to address the gate lower radius arch. It was never released in white, so I need to paint it. If it doesn't work out, I will go with the slopes that David used.
I will post pictures as the build progresses here and upload the LDD file to Rebrickable when everything is complete. I had to make several changes to the LDD file already and want to make sure it is good.